Description
Backgrounds
Keratin is one of the most naturally abundant polymers is found in the nails, hair, and feathers of almost all animals. Structures made of keratin are well known for their tough and non-corrosive features [1].
In the 21st century, the demand for hair removal products has reached new heights. Globally, the hair removal industry is valued at USD 2.2 billion [1] and is expected to grow at a rate of 5.5%[2] per year. This makes hair removal particularly lucrative for both businesses and potential investors. However, with the known risks and inefficiencies of existing hair removal methods, further research into more appropriate means of hair removal is needed. Currently, accessible methods such as shaving or chemical creams are known to cause irritation, ingrown hairs, and potential allergic reactions [3]. According to investigation and analysis of competing products in Human Practices, the main active ingredients of depilatory creams on the market are thioglycolic acid. It can break the oxidized disulfide bonds in keratin and turn into reduced free thiol groups.
With hair removal not only cosmetically desirable (athletes and dancers often undergo hair removal for performance purposes), it is our mission to provide a varying group of individuals with what they need. Removing hair via the findings of synthetic biology is more desirable, not only because the products themselves are more soothing, but also because they are more environmentally friendly and lead to reduced water pollution. In fact, the same keratinases can also be used to break down keratin waste, contributing to not only our mission of consumer safety but also our mission to preserve the environment for future generations. As the main constituent part of the hair, keratin is very hard to decompose and dispose of safely. Keratin wastes are serious pollutants and often lead to environmental hazards. Unlike most household wastes, it is very hard to physically separate due to its thin shape and small volume. The quantity of keratin waste (from hair or shaving) is too small to be able to differentiate as a separate category of trash. However, when it is incinerated like normal dry garbage, it creates poisonous gases and pollutants. This means that our product is useful not only for the individual but contribute for a greater goal.
Idea development
Whilst choosing topics, it was imperative that the problem was applicable in real life and left us enough room to add ingenuity and show entrepreneurship. After days of brainstorming, the final topic decided was using keratinase to degrade keratin waste. It had a wide variety of possible applications as well as the potential to be developed into a product. Alpha keratin being the main constituent of vertebrate hair was selected to be degraded.
To further understand the topic, more research and analysis were needed. Although the topic seems quite simple, it proved to be more challenging than originally envisioned. There were already past projects that used Keratinase in a variety of applications including degrading feathers (by UChicago), corneum decomposition (by NTU_Taida), and drain cleaning (Stuttgart). Keratinase is a type of enzyme with huge application potential. Therefore, we chose a project that explored the commercial potential of Keratinase: hair removal
According to surveys in our Human practices, it is clear that a great potential for a biological depilatory product exists. Choosing this topic meant that the project not only had to cover the scientific aspect of producing enzymes but also looking at commercializing a product. Many previous keratinase iGEM projects were analyzed and very few teams were capable of producing an active keratinase or successfully prove their activity. XH-China for example was creating a skin exfoliating product using keratinase. Although their Human practice ideas were very creative, their experiment revealed very little on the final activity or effects of keratinase. Therefore, we needed more research and knowledge to do everything in our ability to ensure the activity of our enzyme.
Existing hair removal methods
Vision
Although everyone’s personal option on hair removal should be respected, the current market does lack in a environmentally friendly and effective hair removal product. Our goal is to produce a depilatory product that can safely degrade the keratin in hair while easily removing body hair using synthetic biological methods, hence solving the problem of keratin waste disposal. Keratinases that can decompose the α-keratin in human hair became the focus of our attention. By incorporating it into a bio-gel, a depilatory product called "Alpha Gel" that the market has never seen before can be produced. Ideally, our project can inspire more involvement of keratinase in medical and industrial fields, such as treatment of skin keratinization diseases, treatment of poultry feathers in farms, leather pretreatment, hair treatment of household sewage pipes, etc. Alpha gel is not only meant to serve the smaller needs of individuals, but also the larger needs of environmental conservation.
We envision our final product as a mild gel with other cosmetic properties, lending a fragrance and incorporating moisturizing ingredients. In our investigation of the production cycle of cosmetic products, we investigated the production process of a local Intercos factory specializing in skincare, noting the machinery and precautions they took to ensure the quality of their products. We also interviewed the manager of the factory who explained to us the process of prototyping and mass producing a cosmetic product, offering us advice on how we could make our experimental results available to the masses.
References
Varma, K. and S. Gopi (2021). Chapter 7 - Biopolymers and their role in medicinal and pharmaceutical applications. Biopolymers and their Industrial Applications. S. Thomas, S. Gopi and A. Amalraj, Elsevier: 175-191.Size, Endodontic Devices Market. "Share & Trends Analysis Report By Type (Instruments, Consumables), By End Use (Hospitals, Clinics, Dental Academic & Research Institutes), And Segment Forecasts, 2019–2026." Endodontic Devices Market Size & Share Industry Report
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Bridgeman‐Shah, Sharon. "The medical and surgical therapy of pseudofolliculitis barbae."
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Kumawat, T. K., et al. (2018). Keratin waste: the biodegradable polymers. Keratin, IntechOpen.
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Gallarate, M., et al. (2001). "Formulation and characterization of W/O/W multiple emulsions of calcium thioglycolate." Journal of dispersion science and technology 22(1): 13-21.